Sherpa Who Died With Client Had No Previous Everest Experience
September 10, Angela BenavidesEverest | Sherpa
Some weeks ago, we published the testimony of an Everest climber who was the last person to see Nawang Sherpa and his client, Cheruiyot Kirui of Kenya, alive. The story raised the question of how responsible sherpas are for the lives of their tourist climbers.
Nawang Sherpa died because he refused to abandon his ailing client near the summit of Everest. Kerui was exhausted and unable to proceed on his own, but he also irrationally refused to take supplementary oxygen. Nawang asked Base Camp what to do. According to eyewitness Jon Mills of the UK, he was instructed to try and convince Kirui to take the oxygen. Afterward, Nawang lost touch. Neither of the two made it down.
Last week, James Muhia, who had climbed Manaslu with Kerui in (check the post below), posed another question to Explorersweb: Do clients know how much experience their assigned sherpas have, or can they ask?
According to Muhia, Nawang had no previous experience on Everest, which made him a poor fit to guide a climber who wanted to summit the highest peak on Earth without supplementary oxygen.
Into the Vast Unknown
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[Broughton Coburn&#;s The Vast Unknown: America&#;s First Ascent of Everest—to be released on the 50th anniversary of the historic expedition—recounts the epic climbs, the men who pulled them off, and how they inspired a generation. This is a short preview of the acclaimed book, distilled from his account of the first ascent of the West Ridge, which is still regarded as one of the greatest climbs in Himalayan history.]
Click here to read bios on the major players mentioned in this sneak peek.
Click here to read interviews with Jim Whittaker and Tom Hornbein.
A half-century ago&#;
As a teenager in the fall of , I was transfixed—along with 20 million other American viewers—by the first-ever National Geographic TV special. The flickering images, viewed on black-and-white sets by most, showed shaggy men with grizzled beards and blistered skin forging up impossibly steep Himalayan slopes. The glaciers and crevasses were frightening. Looming above, Everest’s summit glowed with an otherworldly aura.
It had taken America
Who is the first Indian to climb Mount Everest twice?
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Lost on Everest
Fifty years ago this month, Jim Whittaker became the first American to summit Everest. Three weeks later, a second party from the same team made an even more stunning assault on the mountain’s unclimbed West Ridge. Using never before published transcripts from the expedition, Grayson Schaffer takes a new look at a bold ascent that changed everything.
“Yanks Seek Himalaya Grand Slam: 3 Seattleites Going”—Seattle Post-Intelligencer, June 5,Chapter 1
There’s been a bit of news around recently, but not from Washington, Moscow or outer space.” This was the first line of a dispatch sent by James Ullman, the American Mount Everest Expedition’s official historian and a Life magazine correspondent. He was trying to play it cool. It was May 4, , seven months after the Cuban missile crisis and during the early years of the moon race. The news Ullman was breaking—and that he and others at the American Embassy in Kathmandu had huddled by the radio to hear, waiting with “damp palms and thumping hearts”—was this: three days earlier, on May 1, an effusive six-foot-five-inch store manager from the Seattle g
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